MILAN, Italy, Feb 26, 2010 (AFP) - Canadian designers DSquared waved a magic wand on Friday 26 February to reveal a black-and-red collection amid smoke and seduction at Milan Fashion Week.

Photo: AFP/Christophe Simon

"Here I am again full of lust and sweat," sighed a feminine voice as the show reminiscent of the 1980s, with thigh-high boots, zippered dresses and super-long latex gloves, kicked off.

A black curtain opened to reveal a model in an elevator cage before she began a slow descent in a puff of smoke, to be greeted at ground level by two hunks in nothing but gold-coloured briefs.

As the model emerged onto the catwalk, it became clear that only her red panties came between her and the fur-trimmed black coat she was wearing.

DSquared twins Dean and Dan Caten were quick to deepen the innuendo with a pair of models sporting black minidresses studded with organza flowers over bright red boots.

The makeup -- smoky black eyes and crimson lips -- completed the look the Catens described as being "between the manga girl and the femme fatale."

Spontaneous applause greeted a strapless number adorned with huge black and red feathers before the Caten twins took the lift themselves to take a bow, wearing matching outfits, tans and smiles.

Things were less in-your-face at Blumarine, whose woman was effortlessly seductive in leather or pony trenches with pushed-up sleeves over hyper-minidresses and calf-high boots.

Designer Anna Molinari created an urban jungle with zebra, crocodile and python motifs for her fall/winter 2010-11 collection.

Plus fringes, which dangled everywhere -- off the high hemlines playing peekaboo with the thigh, off the sleeve or side seam for the original frontier effect, or off the handbag or belt for the fun of it.

Body-hugging draped minidresses in black and pastels for evening became gowns with the addition of a diaphanous chiffon train floating behind.

The addition of a high-waisted leather jacket didn't distract; it just reminded you that it's cold outside.

Also Friday 26 February, fashion house Mariella Burani, which was to have shown its collection on Monday 1 March, announced that it had gone under.

The owner of the Mandarina Duck and Coccinelle brands said it had abandoned plans to seek bankruptcy protection.

Mariella Burani, which lost 185 million euros (250 million dollars) in the first nine months of 2009, has debts of nearly half a billion euros.

Walter Burani, who owns more than 70 percent of the company, is under investigation for accounting fraud and stock manipulation.

Milan Fashion Week, which began on Wedndesday 24 February, runs through Monday 1 March.by Gina Doggett