Hermès goes all-out graphic

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Jun 24, 2017

Loops, stencils and stitching all combined in a hyper graphic collection from Hermès – as the house revelled in its signature DNA for men – insouciant elegance.

 
Loops, like two intertwining chains embossed onto a smooth-as-butter tan leather jerkin. Or a large capital H in ribbing over a cotton blouson.
 
Stencils - designer Véronique Nichanian's savviest idea – as she also added sorts of thin lines of thread, suggesting a playful naivety to such expensive clothes. Geometric patterns wandering over cashmere crewnecks, all very refined.

Her best suits featured a flared, wide leg, a huge Paris trend, and two-button jackets worn with techy nylon waistcoats and shirts. Moreover, she is such a skilled cutter, she essentially reinvented the chino in her own terms, with a classy, luxury vocabulary.
 
Not everything worked. While the runways are full of Eastern European Olympic team uniform references, it was a bit of surprise to see this as a styling trick at Hermès. Putting shiny nylon zip-ups in iridescent colors under suit jackets was just odd for a brand like this. But then again, that is the stylist’s fault and not the designer's.