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By
AFP-Relaxnews
Published
Feb 21, 2016
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Korean designers set the bar high at London Fashion Week

By
AFP-Relaxnews
Published
Feb 21, 2016

London Fashion Week opened with a bang Friday as Seoul-born designer J. JS Lee debuted a bold Autumn/Winter 2016 collection for the modern female power dresser.


J JS Lee©AFP /Ben Stansall


The show opened with a series of structured silhouettes in bold contrasting red, black and mustard yellow that channelled the daring energy of the 1980s and tweaked it with a directional vibe. To this end, masculine trousers were offset by modern fringed hemlines, high-waisted skirts emphasized waspish curves and comfortable-looking bubble-sleeved sweaters were cropped to sit on the hip bone.

The current fervor for all things monochromatic played a huge part in the show, with entire outfits crafted from a single hue, drawing attention to the collection's fluid lines and clever layering (pencil skirts over trousers, anyone?). There were exaggerated pussy-bow blouses, cozy-looking wrap dresses and even chequered, tailored leg warmers -- all of which combined to inject a fierce sense of direction into the working wardrobes of next season's fashionistas.

Eudon Choi - ©AFP / Ben Stansall


It was a hard act to follow, but fellow Korean talent Eudon Choi managed it deftly, showcasing an afternoon collection that bore a similar reverence to structure but a lighter, more delicate touch. The emphasis was on lithe dresses cut to fall away from the body -- trousers, when they did appear, were slashed to the shinbone to create movement and flow.

Asymmetric blazers featured ruffled hems, and three-quarter gowns incorporated singular cold shoulders for a modern and geometric look. Here, too, the pussy bow collar was referenced, although in a pared-down and contemporary way, and though the silken fabrics and pastel color palette hinted more at spring than fall, hooded outwear with outsized structured lapels did offer a concession to colder climes.
 

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