A mixed bag for Parisian men’s fashion tradeshows

By

Christel Divert

Translated by
Isabelle Crossley

Published
Jul 9, 2019

During the latest men’s fashion week, trade shows resumed their role as a guide for buyers from all around the world. At the Place Vendôme, the Man trade show welcomed 25 percent more visitors than its summer edition in 2018. The peak time for visitors was on the Friday, the first day of the event, where crowds were dense. Attendance was also notably raised by the presence of buyers from Japan, Korea, the UK, and the U.S., among many other European countries.

The mixed 'Man/Woman' format at the trade show, which was in its second edition, also took advantage of its location on Rue Cambon.

“We've been organising the trade show for eight years. Working with brands and buyers is paying off, it’s encouraging. We’re also being sought out more and more for advice on the international market. Between our editions in New York and Tokyo, and our trips to other fashion hubs, we are here to share our expertise on the market,” said the co-founder of Man/Woman, Antoine Floch.

On the Tranoï side, at the Palais de la Bourse, the atmosphere seemed calmer. While some may have appreciated the trade show’s new configuration at the Palais Brongniart, the low traffic was seen by a number of brands. Attendance from Japanese buyers increased this season, according to the organisers, but the organisation of the Arthur Avellano runway show could not compensate for the calm.

The Tranoï trade show was also offering Tranoï Week with London Showrooms in the Bastille quarter. At the beginning of June, FashionNetwork.com reported the departure of David Hadida from his role as head of the trade fair and his successor is still yet to be announced. It will soon become clear how the trade show, currently in transition, will evolve under a new leader.

The Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (CIFF) organised its first-ever edition in Paris at the Amelot garage in the 11th arrondissement, close to Haut Marais. Some of the brands presented their collections in the Paris showrooms and most brands interviewed at the event appreciated this first edition, despite the intense heat on the top floor, due to the weather. They emphasised the quality of the attending buyers and their diverse international origins. 

For Kristian W. Andersen, the director of the Copenhagen trade show, the results were positive and have allowed him to envisage future editions.

“We didn’t want to put on a classic trade show,” said Andersen.

“We wanted to create a platform around a community with collaborations, events around art, sport, and fashion, and collection presentations. It is essential to invent other models. Especially as all of this business is not done online. We have a real card to play here in Paris.”

Finally, Welcome Edition Showroom organised its third edition in the 11th arrondissement and it definitely had the wind in its sails. The trade show was designed by Mark Batista of the London agency Brand Progression, who took part in Jacket Required in London. The event featured over 70 brands and its selection of international brands comprised neo-heritage and sportswear brands with a history.

Participating brands included Nigel Cabourn, Filson, Barbour, Pendleton Sanqvist, Kings of Indigo, Fleur de Bagne, and Baracuta.

“Here, there are clients with a very sharp profile. All of the department stores and boutiques that count on this segment come here,” said Aron Sharpe, head of Options Fashion Distribution, which imports American fashion brands in Europe. 

“Pitti Uomo is still important in terms of image,” said Gianni Klemera, founder of the showroom Fattore K, which represents Original Madras Trading, Our Legacy, Atelier & Repairs for Roy Rogers, and Universal Works.

“But it’s in Paris that we do the real business.”

The formula is international but very targeted, and brands practically find partners on the spot. The French brand Overlord indeed validated an entry into Italy and the Netherlands by participating in the trade show.

Welcome Edition Showroom should continue to grow and will accommodate another dozen brands at its upcoming edition in January next year when it will take place in a new space.