Carven's most grown up collection in years

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Sep 28, 2017

Carven took its collection to the Campus Jussieu, the Pierre and Marie Curie University in west Paris and then proceeded to send out its most grown up collection in years.

Presented underneath a massive steel structure, the collection marked the debut of designer Serge Ruffieux. This Swiss-born designer leapt to fame two years ago when he and Lucie Meier were briefly handed the reins of Christian Dior in the interim between the departure of Raf Simons and the arrival of Maria Grazia Chiuri.
 
Judging by the display, Ruffieux will have a far longer tenure at Carven. His is a subtle style blended with a bold sense of silhouette. Ruffieux likes ladies capes, but cuts them as Tennis shirts; he relishes padded rain gear but cuts it with ballooning shoulders and scalloped front. He will sell you a safari jacket but made into a billowing picnic front. If you like a gentlemanly tuxedo shirt, Carven has one for next spring though as an elongated dress.

“Citron, zesty, urban and sophisticated,” commented the designer after presenting a collection in marked contrast to the location. The clothes are witty, the campus pure brutalism.
 
The cast marching on a sober green carpet passed panels of carpet fabrics. These are not teenagers’ clothes, but  a more mature take on how to create a fun-loving wardrobe for a busy modern lady. A major cheer at the finale with a huge French contingent actively celebrating his debut.
 
“Really, very good. Wonderful to see such a strong debut,” commented Dior CEO Sidney Toledano, who sportingly attended.