Costume National cancels contract with Ittierre

By

Dominique Muret

Published
Jun 25, 2013

After a solid and lengthy collaboration between National Costume and Ittierre, the two firms are parting ways. “We decided to bring the production of our main line back in house in order to have more control and make management easier. In the five-year contract for the production of our main collection, we had a right to terminate at the end of the second completed year, ending our relationship to Ittierre before the contract’s term,” said Carlo Capasa, CEO of Costume National, confirming rumors of a possible divorce between the fashion house and the Italian group specializing in licenses for luxury brands.

Since June 2011, Costume National had contracted Ittierre to produce its main ready-to-wear line for men and women. Additionally, it had established a joint venture with the group based in Molise (Southern Italy) for the worldwide distribution of the Costume National brand. This relationship has also been terminated. Costume National’s production reorganization will start with the spring/summer 2014 men's collection, which had its runway show Saturday, June 22 in Milan.

“We rely on quality suppliers, especially a company in the Italian region of Veneto,” said Carlo Capasa. The production of the collection was assigned to Pier, a manufacturer in Treviso specializing in high-end brands, whose portfolio currently includes big names like Azzedine Alaia, Dior Homme, Dries Van Noten, Kris Van Assche, Nina Ricci and product license for several brands including Hussein Chalayan.

Costume National has been associated with the Ittierre group for years. The Italian manufacturer still holds the license for the production and worldwide distribution of the brand’s C'N'C young line. In 2009, Costume National renewed the license for ten years and affirmed its confidence in the new management of Ittiere, acquired by Antonio Bianchi (Albisetti) after the financial woes struck the company. Regarding the license for this second line, “the contract allows for termination in one season. We are currently evaluating the issue,” said Carlo Capasa.

Costume National wholesale turnover is at 70 million euros. In mid-September, the brand will open a second boutique in Milan and intends to expand into the U.S. market.