Dunhill: All wrapped up for an art heist

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Jun 24, 2019

One menswear brand seemingly on the rise is Dunhill, formerly a sleeping beauty in the Richemont luxury conglomerate.

 
The London-based house staged its spring 2020 collection inside the Louvre on Sunday evening, and it was the most compelling selection by its creative director Mark Weston, since he made his debut with Dunhill in 2017.
 
For a brand based on British tailoring, it was impressive to see how many risks and experiments Weston took this season.

There was an almost Japanese air to his floating, feather-light constructions: from light kimono looks to artful cross-over short jackets; to a flawless one-button leather blazer so smooth it looked made of blackened steel.

 
Like all the best designer tailors this season he cut his trousers mega wide with ties and straps at the ankles. Though the decision to cover some of these in rapper satin boxing shorts felt like trying too hard.

Presented on a mirrored catwalk where the models walked out of a huge plume of dry ice, the collection was almost entirely in black and white, with tiny hints of smoky blue and putty grey, with just one blast of color: a marvelous gold and yellow Dunhill logo-print poncho that left you craving more.

 
"Sophistication, elegance, simplicity and playing with our house’s codes," said the designer backstage.
 
Notably, the collection built on his first runway show in Paris, with its signature wrapped jackets, but took the concept to another level. The mood was Bryan Ferry drives a DeLorean to a heist in futuristic San Francisco. 
 
"Much more extreme this season, with split hems. I wanted to be a little more provocative," concluded Weston.