Maison Margiela extends John Galliano's design contract

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Oct 30, 2019

John Galliano has renewed his contract as creative director of the house of Maison Margiela, in a vote of confidence in the controversial British designer.
 
“I am super excited for this new chapter and grateful to Renzo for his belief in me and the vision for Maison Margiela,” said Galliano in a release.

 
“OTB and its President Renzo Rosso are proud to announce the renewal of the contract of John Galliano as Creative Director of Maison Margiela,” read the release from OTB, or Only the Brave, the key holding company of Italian fashion billionaire and founder of Diesel Rosso.
 
The news does not come as a immense surprise, since Galliano has garnered wide ranging critical acclaim for his avant-garde and path breaking collections for Margiela; which have also won a growing commercial success. That said, OTB did not reveal the exact length of his new agreement.

“Five years ago I believed that John was the only person who could take this house in his hands, and I am even more convinced of this today. John’s undisputed talent is only matched by his understanding of today’s generations, their way of thinking, their struggles, their dreams. And he is doing exactly what this Maison always did at its best – disrupt, innovate and inspire,” stressed Rosso, who acquired Margiela in 2002.
 
Galliano was initially appointed to helm the women’s division of the avant-garde French house back in October 2014. He was the first publicly named creative director to guide Margiela, after the 2009 retirement of the legendarily secretive and camera founder of the house Martin Margiela, who has never sat for a proper fashion portrait for any publication and website. Like founder Martin, Galliano never takes a bow after a Margiela show, respecting the house’s low profile tradition.
 
The British designer joined Margiela after a three-year hiatus that began after he was dramatically fired as couturier of Christian Dior in 2011 after he was filmed making anti-Semitic remarks. His debut Margiela show was held under intense security in London, before subsequently staging all his Margiela shows in Paris.  
 
Since his arrival, Galliano has made Margiela “the coolest cutting-edge couture house,” OTB argued in its statement.
 
Galliano is noted for working with a “pyramidical approach” originating from the Artisanal couture collection, which infuses all ready-to-wear and accessories lines. His designs for Margiela are recognized for their audacity; brilliant use of deconstruction; nomadic cutting and use of unique materials – from hyper realist prints to experimental metallics. Though his aesthetic is a long way from the theatrical glory of his heyday at Dior, his Margiela shows, whether couture or ready-to-wear, are tightly packed events with much sought-after invitations.
 
The revenues of the house have doubled since his arrival, OTB claimed. Annual turnover is believed to approach €190 million, buoyed by the rapid growth of a significant accessories business, which now accounts for 60% of total sales. A new Maison Margiela fragrance Mutiny, developed with licensing partner L’Oréal, hit the market in 2019; while the house is also preparing a new store concept.