×
60
Fashion Jobs
H&M
Product Labelling Specialist, Global Product Compliance Department
Permanent · Stockholm
H&M
Business Controller to Assortment
Permanent · Stockholm
H&M
Product Compliance Coordinator For Cosmetic And Chemical External Branded Products
Permanent · Stockholm
H&M
Buying Student Placement Fall 2020
Permanent · Stockholm
H&M
Art Buyer | h&m Studios
Permanent · Stockholm
H&M
Commercial Planner, Men’s Business Unit, h&m Head Office
Permanent · Stockholm
H&M
HR Specialist h&m - Health And Work Environment
Permanent · Eskilstuna
H&M
HR Generalist h&m
Permanent · Eskilstuna
H&M
Marketing Manager Sweden
Permanent · Stockholm
H&M
External Brand Coordinator
Permanent · Stockholm
H&M
External Brand Expansion Coordinator
Permanent · Stockholm
H&M
Print Design Assistant - h&m Home
Permanent · Stockholm
H&M
Product Designer - h&m Home - 6 Months Fixed Term Contract With The Possibility of Prolongation - From February 2020
Fixed-term · Stockholm
H&M
Cafémedarbetare
Permanent · Stockholm
H&M
Facility Manager Sweden
Permanent · Stockholm
H&M
Creative Lead, h&m Marketing & Communication
Permanent · Stockholm
H&M
Area Controller Trainee to h&m in Stockholm
Internship · Stockholm
H&M
Fashion Print Design Assistant
Permanent · Stockholm
H&M
Fashion or Print Design Student Placement Summer 2020
Permanent · Stockholm
H&M
Junior Pattern Maker
Permanent · Stockholm
HOLLISTER CO
Retail Manager (Manager in Training) - Hollister Gallerian - Full Time
Permanent · STOCKHOLM
H&M
Fashion Design Assistant
Permanent · Stockholm

Milan Fashion Week gets mixed reviews

Translated by
Nicola Mira
Published
today Feb 28, 2017
Reading time
access_time 2 minutes
Share
Download
Download the article
Print
Click here to print
Text size
aA+ aA-

It was a low-profile edition for the Milan womenswear Fashion Week showcasing the AW 2017-18 ready-to-wear collections. The event schedule was very busy, featuring 174 collections, with 70 official catwalk shows (plus a host of off-calendar shows) and 92 presentations, but the sparkle was missing.


Gigi Hadid wearing Max Mara, whose collection was highly rated in Milan - © PixelFormula


The week ended on Monday with a mass celebrated at the Duomo, Milan's catholic cathedral, in honour of Franca Sozzani, the renowned editor-in-chief of Vogue Italy who died on 22nd December. The entire Italian fashion establishment was present, and many more.

It was the culmination of a week that was "a little lacklustre", as one buyer described it. "There was nothing new, no trend or direction to relate to. We have to figure it out ourselves," complained a retailer from Modena, Italy. "I'm all the more disappointed because these were the winter collections, a season that is crucial for us. Paradoxically, long-standing labels such as Max Mara or Agnona were those that gave us the most satisfaction, by featuring genuine products," he added.

A view that chimed with that of Elina Halimi, a French retailer who has recently sold the Kabuki Paris concept store. "It seems to me that the week’s main focus was the trend for highly wearable, more commercial items. As well as Prada's, which showcased an exceptional collection, I very much appreciated the show by Max Mara, which brought real clothes centre stage again. I'd have bought everything!" The Max Mara collection featured monochrome looks consisting of simple elements, at once comfortable and very sophisticated (suits, trousers, turtleneck sweaters and large overcoats), and seems to have successfully caught the current mood of consumers, who both want to be reassured and to stop spending crazy sums for clothing they will only wear once.

Several collections seen on the Milan catwalks took that route, avoiding the excesses of the past by featuring all-purpose, interchangeable items, with the occasional sprinkle of shimmering kookiness, such as the return of lamé for eveningwear, and with a healthy dose of striking colours, to brighten up both wardrobe and morale.

However, the general impression was of déjà vu, and of a lack of innovation. Some labels were disappointing, while others were content with simply blowing the dust off previous designs.

To generate some interest, Milan relied on the more original, intriguing collections by the emerging talents and new names which joined the calendar this season, such as the three Chinese labels Angel Chen, Xu Zhi and Annakiki, and Situationist, by Georgian designer Irakli Rusadze.

These emerging talents have undoubtedly brought a breath of fresh air to the Milan Fashion Week.
 

Copyright © 2019 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.