PFW: Christian Louboutin looks to dance, Bruno Frisoni further develops relaunched namesake brand

By

Roxanne Robinson

Published
Oct 2, 2022

The intrigue around Christian Louboutin's Spring 2023 collection began with the invitation for 'The Loubi Show', which would take place on the iconic Eiffel Tower.

The designer would overtake the Gustave Eiffel Salon and convert it into a cabaret complete with a custom-made set that housed 13 mostly female models sequin-clad dancers, each sporting a select style from the new offerings. A celestial crystal pattern bedecked pumps, booties, and a bag style, while the 'Lipstrass Heel'—based on a lipstick from the wildly successful Louboutin cosmetics line—also channeled the sparkling creations appearing on various styles. Another clear message for Spring 2023 was the PVC-centric pink and chartreuse styles.

After navigating a difficult entry process—it appeared the Eiffel Tower staff had a much different directive involving tickets to enter the elevator to the first level—guests found themselves in a red room save for huge black curtains blocking the panoramic view of Paris. A catwalk-style structure flanked by two staircases and lined in neon lights served as a stage for dancers who appeared after a short film showing one of the dancers traipsing around iconic Parisian spots such as Opera at night.

The performance was seductive and tantalizing, almost to the point of forgetting there were shoes involved. (Though many of the dancer's moves were designed to show off the sexy high heels). It was highly entertaining and one of those moments to say, 'I was there.' To that end, the brand partnered with POAP, a technical protocol that aids guests in creating a blockchain token NFT to prove one's attendance at special events such as concerts, openings, and fashion shows.

It was a badge of honor after successfully navigating the tricky door conditions. When the curtain was drawn back at the end of the spectacle, it was nice. Still, it left one wondering if the movie and dance could have been better served in an easier-to-access location.

Bruno Frisoni has reentered the shoe market by launching his namesake brand during the resort season with his Fall 2023 collection. For Summer 2023, he followed up by adding new styles to the collection.

A new style called 'Car Crash' evoked artist John Chamberlain's scrap metal sculpture work with its metallic and iridescent folded leather finish that resembled mangled metals, hence the name.

Another group called 'Miami Spice' utilized upcycled denim jackets—specifically the sleeve vent and waistband hem sections—for a series of bootie-inspired heeled mules accented with crystal-encrusted buttons. Each pair required one jacket and uses upcycled vintage jean jackets. Frisoni also introduced some hot pink and neon yellow-green styles in PVC in line with a prevailing Spring 2023 color and material trend.

The designer added his inventiveness with special hardware to anchor a ribbon that crisscrosses up the leg on a sandal style or, in the case of an exquisite pink and green satin pump, his trademark elastic band that adds comfort and support along with design interest.