Paris couture opens with Schiaparelli’s emotional surrealism

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Jan 24, 2022

Nothing ever quite compares to Paris haute couture, which opened Monday morning with a raw, emotional and surreally glamorous collection from the house of Schiaparelli by its couturier Daniel Roseberry.

 
Presented inside the marble grandeur of the Petit Palais on the Champs Elysees, the show attracted a suitably surreal front row too. From Kanye West in his Yeezy jacket and a full black head-stocking; his official squeeze Julia Fox in black leather catsuit and giant golden lock handbag all by Schiap; along with the ever-beautiful Pixie Lott in a multi-lock four-pocket jacket. 
 
Half the front row sported Schiap jewelry - three-inch golden finger extensions; fierce mouth handbags; scales of justice necklaces and large nipple-ring jewelry.

Under Roseberry, Schiap has gained the heat and traction it had lost for over half a century, thanks to his body-part accessories and facial-feature handbags. Daniel has also dressed multiple superstars – winning a vibrant new audience for the storied maison – Beyoncé at the Grammys or Kate Blanchett for the Golden Globes.

 
Though the never-ending lockdown led to a period of introspection by Roseberry on the relevance of fashion. The result was a highly unexpected collection even by the standards of the artistic couture house par excellence, starring some remarkable metal sleeves, accoutrements; floating leaves and spiderlike webs. 
 
“Weightless sculptures,” Roseberry explained in his program notes, referring to the gilded gold shapes, often embroidered in vintage cabochons and crystals sourced from the late 1930s.
 
“The effect is childlike and a little raw,” added the Texan-born designer, who took a graceful bow in the light-filled wing of the palace, where two fellow designers Olivier Rousteing and Simon Porte Jacquemus applauded heartily. As did Schiaparelli’s ebullient patron, Italian luxury billionaire Diego Della Valle, sitting beside Anna Wintour.

 
Patent leather cocktail dresses came with giant cone bras finished with multiple golden hoops; while a see-through black chiffon gown was surrounded by a swarm of floating 24K gold leaf leaves – one of many displays of Schiaparelli’s impressive Place Vendome couture atelier. 
 
Plus, Roseberry had a whole new array of accessories, from ear-shaped earrings finished with pearls and emeralds to a very witty golden grocer's-weight handbag. 
 
Few creative endeavors are more collaborative than couture, as Roseberry’s high-powered team reminded the audience in this excellent show. Whether the gigantic boater hats cut out at the center from Stephen Jones or the defiant, sculpted chignons by Guido Palau. While Pat McGrath’s pale makeup and cappuccino-hued eyes were suitably moody and the outlandish metallic nails were something else.
 
Though all guided by the haute-gamme quirky aesthetic of Roseberry, the designer who finally has made Schiaparelli work. And how.