Proenza Schouler: Stricter, shorter and sexier

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Feb 11, 2020

Everyone who has been complaining about an allegedly lightweight season in New York should have obtained an invitation to see the Proenza Schouler show on Monday night -- a cleaned-up, classy and crisp collection of great clothes.

Proenza Schouler’s designer duo, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, concentrated on the true test of serious designers – cut and line – sending out streamlined silhouettes, sleek tailoring and flattering volume.
 
From the opening look – a perfectly draped black dress in heavy crepe cut to hang off the shoulder and nipped in below the waist by a vertical line of gold studs. The gents cut double-breasted coats like oversized boyfriend’s blazers – again worn off one shoulder.

While a white knit cocktail with mutton-chop sleeves and ruched shoulders looked like one of those Brâncusi sculptures: 'Mademoiselle Pogany' on the banks of the Hudson River.
 
The audience even let out an audible murmur when Gigi Hadid passed in a sublime coat-dress in candy apple red, paired with square-toed, knee-high boots in slouchy glove leather.
 
“We are reacting to the moment. We work on instinct. We are not political designers in any way, but you cannot help but be influenced by the world around you. And there is feeling of things unravelling and a need for protection, of blankets,” explained Hernandez.

 
“We wanted to strip things back and take away the softness of the past seasons, and be a bit stricter, and sharper,” added McCollough.
 
Plus, everything seemed in synch in this show. A complimentary location: the twisted tower, beehive-like IAC Building on Hudson River, designed by Frank Gehry. Snazzy jelled hair by Guido Palau; a great casting by Ashley Brokaw; and perfect styling by Camilla Nickerson. All together, the most important fashion statement of any show so far, in New York.
 
They also discovered that many clients had starting wearing the longer tops of recent collections as dresses. So, in response, they decided to go shorter. 
 
“What’s wrong with a little leg?” laughed Hernandez.