Ralph Rucci skillfully returns to Paris with RR331

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Jun 30, 2019

Nice to spend a Sunday morning in the presence of grown ups. To witness a display of classical couture, where cut line and silhouette were the basis of a truly refined collection by veteran American couturier Ralph Rucci.

 
An entirely print-free collection, light years away from the Me Me Me era of Instagram influencers. Staged on a cast of thirty-somethings in two garden rooms of the Hotel Ritz, this polished statement could have felt like time capsule couture, instead it seemed more like a timely reminder of that key mission of haute couture – to render women elegant.
 
From the opening statuesque, all black looks: poised combos of  chiffon shirts with Jesuit sleeves over pencil pants; delicate boleros worn with tunics and slim trousers; or a fabulous silk coat-dress trimmed with thundery-sky gray mink.

Oatmeal double-face cashmere capes, little black dresses dissected with semi-transparent tulle, or a magnificent Imperial purple duchess satin gown with an immense bow all added to the sense of pure refinement.
 
"It’s a dream to be back in Paris, and to be presenting couture. It’s a métier and art I’ve loved and studied for four decades," said Rucci post show.
 
Back in 2002, Rucci caused a sensation by becoming the first American-born couturier to show in Paris since Mainbocher. However, subsequently, his brand Chado Ralph Rucci had something of an erratic career. Indeed, five years ago Ralph joined a rather invidious club – designers who have lost the rights to their own name – from Halston and Jil Sander to John Galliano, Alessandro Dell’Acqua and Roland Mouret.
 
Hence the name on the labels of this collection – RR331, which refers to the number of steps taken in Chado, the Japanese tea ceremony.
 
"I’ve done quite a few variations of couture, some hyper embellished with Monsieur Lesage. So it was nice to just concentrate on the purity this season," concluded this Philadelphia-born couturier and artist.