Roberto Cavalli fall menswear 2022: Pet Shop Brooklyn Boys in S&M-tinged separates

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Jan 31, 2022

All about separates in the latest rock-accented collection for Roberto Cavalli by Fausto Puglisi, where the designer riffed on everyone from the Pet Shop Boys to Axl Rose.

 
In a New York-accented collection, Puglisi focused on making a collection that managed to feel both exclusive yet also commercial at the same time.
 
“I am so glad that within one year we have got fashion back into Cavalli. Working still on separates, which is my passion,” said Puglisi in a Zoom presentation of the collection and his latest video. Cavalli skipped this January’s Milan menswear runway season in favor of a delayed digital show, shot by Tommaso Ottomano, and a look-book.

The Sicilian-born designer concentrated key Cavalli codes – from zebra and jacquard to macro-rocker -oundstooth and micro-check cashmere to, well, snakes.
 
“I wanted a casting that was cool, but always sexy,” added Fausto, who dressed his Brooklyn hipsters in mega cool jacquard snakeskin jogging pants and blousons; or great metal-stitched leather pants and bomber jackets. Lots of leather indeed, with S&M harnesses and straps adding kick.

 
“I wanted lots of product that was fun, crazy and wearable. We need to feel special these days, with clothes that wearable and yet flamboyant. Plus, I’ve been doing research into bondage,” chuckled Puglisi, who showed black cashmere coats with two front S&M belts: kilts in lurex and a split bondage jumpsuit – half check and the other side purple flowers.
 
And let’s not forget Python slip kilts in silk twill, “for naughty boys,” winked Puglisi.
 
The collection will be available in stores and online beginning in September. It marks the latest step in Puglisi’s successful revival of the brand, which had suffered something of a spiral in the wake of founder Roberto’s retirement in 2015, but now seems to have recovered its self-confident sass and sex appeal.

 
Puglisi’s big-jacketed Pet Shop Boys looks came with lapels in leather, along with a soupcon of Masculine and Feminine, with guys and girls in the same jacquard smoking jackets.

Moreover, Fausto had a full-on purple moment – from aubergine oversized leather suits, and purple zebra dresses in a somewhat co-ed video. All the way to the narrator of the show video Ottaviano Blitch, who sported an Imperial Roman purple shirt, and even played the role of a doctor and dresser.
 
Classic puffer coats came in serpent prints or black nylon, what the designer called “Sicilian country boys let loose.” While for Grammy-award-winning moments, mini chains sewn onto leather bombers, like “rock god couture.”
 
Do take note, Axl Rose.