This winter, the designers play with shoulders: oversized, squared, unveiled, the collections really emphasise this part of the female body. Reworked in an 80’s spirit, conferring the idea of omnipotent women, they are wide, oversized and square. Hedi Slimane, for Saint Laurent, revisits exaggerated volumes for an intensified femininity, with shoulders sharply pointed or asymmetric, revealing a shoulder. Ditto at Kenzo, where the shoulder gives the silhouette its whole identity. (interview)A focus on the shoulders with new cuts and attitudes putting them at the forefront with a more couture 50’s feel, they take on a rounded shape for a softer lookShoulders may suggest an idea of sensuality, slightly falling, just like at Dior. (interview x2)At Marni the sleeve and shoulder effects are the main themes of this winter wardrobe, with sleeves worked like sculptures: voluminous, rounded, pagodas or draped. A sense of futuristic romanticism emerges at Fendi with a play on undulations.(interview) It’s a playground for designing new silhouettes, just like at Jacquemus, the shoulder gets ready to be really teased (interview)One thing is for certain, shoulders will dazzle us next winter…Interviews from Humberto Leon, Lucie Meier, Jessica Alba, Karl Lagerfeld & Simon Porte JacquemusHumberto Leon:We really wanted to play with the strength. We felt like the shoulders really gave our girl a really good strength to her stature, Sailor moon was a really big inspiration so we wanted to give her power and so I think the shoulders gave you that. I think it was really a play on classic ideas but with generous proportions. Lucie Meier:There was lots of spontaneity in the clothing, we let the clothing live, in fact, let them pose not too rigid or too straight, it was the shoulders that fell.Jessica Alba:I love the dresses and the coats that were just off the shoulder, I loved the nonchalant aspect with the juxtaposition of such beautiful clothing. Karl Lagerfeld:So to make the waves: cut it out in a half moon like this then pull both ends straight and the rounded part forms like waves. It is very different to ruches which are for me an old romantic so these waves are something totally different.Simon Porte Jacquemus: I wanted to create new illusions, but different illusions that float in the air, like they’re in a cartoon.Music free of rights: Bandit & Nikit
Autumn Winter 2016/17 Trend: A play on shoulders and sleeves!
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